The secrets of kelaghayi

Yazar Kadir Toprakkaya

Azerbaijan is a country rich in culture with many traditional arts and crafts. Many of these remarkable traditions go way back to the Silk Road, and practice of those continues up until today. The legacy of the Silk Road is especially visible in the picturesque village of Basgal, the home of Azerbaijani kelaghayi. At this beautiful village with its cobblestone and cosy streets, not only can you witness the secrets of kelaghayi creation but dwell in the atmosphere of tradition and history of Azerbaijan.

Traditionally worn by Azerbaijani women, kelaghayis are exquisite silk headscarves that are made using the tradition of ages. First, weavers look for thin silk threads which are then turned into the fabric from the weave on looms. When the textile is ready, the craftsman boils and dries it to shape to square-form. In the final stage, weavers use colours made from natural substances and dye the newly created fabric. There is a big variety regarding the colours of kelaghayi as each carries special meaning to it and is suited to the particular social occasion. Afterwards, masters decorate the headscarves with patterns which are made by using the batik technique. This technique implies a method of stamping on hot wax to prevent the dye from colouring the fabric. And just like the marvellous peace of Azerbaijani craft is born.

It is known that the making of kelaghayi, as well as silk weaving, were practised at every household in the Basgal village. Each of the families used specific symbols and patterns that represented their unique style. This exquisite tradition was made sure to be passed to the next generations, yet these crafts found themselves on the verge of disappearance by the end of the Soviet period. Fortunately, the revival began in the early 2000s with the establishment of the kelaghayi factory in Basgal. The new generation of designers is inspired to continue the tradition of their ancestors and strive to modernise headscarves and make them fashionable again. When adding novelty to the fashion of kelaghayi, designers endeavour to preserve its authenticity, which adds uniqueness to every outfit it goes with.

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