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A country where happiness is a way of life: Moldova

Throughout history, Moldova — a small country neighboring Ukraine and

Throughout history, Moldova — a small country neighboring Ukraine and Romania with a surface area of just 33,800 km², smaller than Turkey’s Konya province — has had to live under the rule of various tribes and nations. For travelers, 3 to 4 days are sufficient to explore the entire country from end to end.

Naturally, the first stop is the capital city, Chișinău—pronounced “Kishinau” by locals—where the country’s only airport is located. A direct flight from Istanbul takes approximately 1.5 hours, while traveling by car takes around 14 hours (about 1,000 km), and by bus, roughly 22 hours. Turkish Airlines and Pegasus Airlines offer regular flights from Istanbul.

Thanks to a bilateral agreement between Turkey and Moldova, Turkish citizens do not need a visa. However, even though it’s a visa-free entry, it’s important to bring your passport along with your ID card. Border control might ask you several questions to distinguish genuine tourists from those attempting to use Moldova as a transit route into Europe from the Middle East or Asia. Having hotel reservations and a return ticket handy could be useful in such situations.

The distance between Chișinău Airport and the city center is about 13 km. You can take a taxi, a bus, or opt for a nostalgic ride on a trolleybus. English is generally sufficient for communication, and you may even encounter someone who speaks Turkish. Moldovan people are known for their warm and kind attitude toward Turks. It’s no surprise that Turkish tourists make up around 13–14% of the country’s total tourism.

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Chișinău has a population of around 800,000, while the entire country’s population is about 2.4 million—meaning the capital holds nearly one-third of Moldova’s population. While exploring the city, you can use taxis (prices are negotiable, much like old-style haggling in Turkey 25–30 years ago). However, the most nostalgic and entertaining means of transportation are the electric trolleybuses with double poles. Since the city is not very large and distances between sights are short, walking is also a great option, allowing for close interaction with the locals.

One aspect that will surely catch your attention is the richness of nature in Chișinău, especially compared to other European cities. Thanks to its green environment, Chișinău is often called the “Green City.” During your city tour, you’ll notice that most buildings along the broad boulevards are low-rise and horizontally built—some abandoned and likely remnants from Russian rule. Although Moldova gained independence in 1991, the atmosphere of that era still lingers.

Most historical and cultural landmarks are located in what’s known as the “Old Town.” Notable sights include the Water Tower, the Metropolitan Cathedral, the Victory Arch, Chișinău Train Station, the Stefan the Great Monument, City Museums, the Alexander Pushkin Museum, the Bell Tower, Dormition Church, Wooden Church, and Mazarache Church. There are also places of worship for all major faiths: synagogues for Jewish travelers, churches for Christians, and mosques for Muslims. Between visits, you can rest at small cafés and enjoy a variety of hot and cold beverages. Payments are accepted in Moldovan Leu, euros, US dollars, and most international credit cards.

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After exploring the city center, don’t miss out on visiting Moldova’s renowned wineries—home to the world’s longest wine cellars, some even listed in the Guinness Book of Records. Especially during summer, these cool underground tours provide a refreshing break and the opportunity to taste exquisite Moldovan wines in their tasting salons. Notable wineries include Castel Mimi (which also offers luxurious accommodation), Cricova Winery, and Milestii Mici.

Moldova uses two main winemaking techniques: the French and Italian methods. The French technique involves traditional, time-intensive processes using 3–4 ton oak barrels, while the Italian method employs faster, industrial processes with metal tanks. Regardless of the method, the wines are rich in flavor and are poised to take their place in the world’s premium wine markets.

Spread along the banks of the Dniester and Prut rivers, this lush country was historically called “Bogdan” by the Ottomans and “Bessarabia” by the Russians. Moldova is also home to two autonomous regions. The one particularly significant to Turks is Gagauzia, inhabited by the Gagauz Turks (also known as Gök-Oğuz), whose capital is Komrat (meaning “black horse”). Other important towns include Ceadîr-Lunga and Vulcănești.

Gagauzia is a federation covering 1,848 km² with a population of about 170,000. You’ll find no difficulty communicating here—locals speak fluent Turkish. These Christian Orthodox people will often express deep emotions when talking about their roots and Atatürk. They continue their traditional ways of life with gathering places resembling old-style Turkish coffeehouses, handlooms, dark floral-patterned carpets, and horse breeding.

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If you continue traveling north along the Ukrainian border, you’ll reach the second autonomous region, known to Moldovans as “Transnistria” and to Russians as “Pridnestrovie.” A word of caution: this region has been under Russian control since the 1992 Moldova-Russia conflict. You will need your passport to enter, and be sure to keep the official entry document you receive—losing it could lead to serious issues. A special permit is required to stay longer than 45 days, but a one-day visit is usually sufficient.

Transnistria has its own flag and government, but citizens carry Russian passports. The local currency is the Transnistrian Ruble, recognized only by Russia, and international credit cards do not work here—only cash in their local currency is accepted. This socialist republic has its own police, military, and parliament. During your visit, you’ll see statues of Soviet figures, red stars, tanks, memorials, and vast Soviet-style squares and architecture—scenes rarely seen even in modern-day Russia.

Outside the city center, I recommend visiting two exceptional places. The first is Bender Fortress, located by the Dniester River. Historically called Tighina, the name Bender means “port by the river” in Persian and “marketplace” in Arabic. The site changed hands among Tatars, Moldovans, Ottomans, and Russians for centuries. It was captured by the Ottomans in 1538 and reportedly fortified by Mimar Sinan. There’s a reproduction of a historical inscription from Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent at the entrance (the original was taken by the Russians). It’s an atmospheric location to take incredible photos and reflect on Ottoman heritage.

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The second place is perfect for gourmets and those interested in fishing: a sturgeon farm and caviar production facility. A visit takes about one hour, during which you’ll learn everything about sturgeon and can later purchase caviar in various sizes and prices. After this 5–6 hour excursion, you can return to Chișinău to end your trip.

We extend our sincere thanks to the Moldovan Ministry of Tourism, Mr. Sergiu Manea, Mr. Valentin Ceban, and especially our guide Ms. Elena Balatel, for introducing us to Moldova in such detail and accompanying us throughout the “Moldova Press Trip” with great hospitality.

Delal Tahsin Atamdede
FIJET Vice President